WALLMECHANIC.COM

drywall tape repair

2011-08-27T19:23:11Z

It is not uncommon to find areas with loose paper drywall tape, especially in homes or buildings with high ceilings. Often, tapers will not do more than one coat of compound at the peaks in rooms, and in a few years it becomes noticeable. To fix this problem, the first approach, in most cases, is to cut the tape vertically too allow compound to be put beneath the tape and squeeze out any excess for a flush coat. After drying, one or two more coats of mud/compound can be applied.
Sometimes there are wavy or bubbly looking seams that can either be remedied with more joint compound or tearing out the old tape. It can be replaced with either the fiberglass mesh tape or paper tape with holes in it, or regular paper tape. I prefer the fiberglass for strength and ease of use (squeezing out excess compound), and frequently only needing 2 coats of mud to complete the work.
Durabond powder mixes also speed up repairs with cure times of 45, 60, or 90 minutes, most commonly. They allow one day repairs when time is a priority. The only drawback to Durabond is you're not supposed to paint it. So at least one coat of joint compound needs to be applied, then sand, prime, and finish paint.
For most people / DIY'ers, using the compound in the blue and white tub is better. The green and white pails work fine but tends too shrink making additional coats and sanding necessary. The blue and white or dust control type does contol the dust and makes less of the nasty drywall dust. It amazes me how many people don't use dust masks when sanding compound since it really is not good too breath as well as getting dust all over a house if plastic is not put up between rooms. Anyway, just trying let people know a few things about working with compound.

Water damage from the heavy snowfall-winter 2011

2011-02-25T15:48:00Z

This winter has seen unprecedented snowfall totals, resulting in roof leaks, collapses, ice dam problems and many headaches for the property owner. Those people with homeowner insurance can usually file a claim and get help with their troubles. Of course, this depends on the specifics of each policy. In 1994 and 1996 Connecticut had many claims due to ice dam damage, resulting in many insurance companies to cancel this coverage or change the limits of coverage. Contacting your provider to file a claim should be the first step.
If someone has water stains, leaks,drywall or property damage, inside the home or building, they should, in most cases, wait until early spring to do the repair work. This is because we may be getting more snow and early spring rain causing more of the same leaks. Generally, one would be fortunate to get an exterior leak repaired at this time of year. But maybe a break in the weather and a willing roofer could do it sooner.
Those who live in condominium complexes need to determine if their association policy covers these damages or maybe their own inside homeowners policy? Usually, the association covers this, since the water leaks in from the outside to the inside. There also needs to be time for the inside walls, ceilings to dry out. Most of the time, using a paint such as Zinsser Odorless Oil-Based Stain Blocker, will hide and seal the brown water marks. Putting on 2 coats, rather than spot priming and finishing with a latex ceiling paint, will do a good job and save time on the labor. Each ceiling will be in different condition and must be evaluated individually. Doing wall repairs and repainting to match the existing wall colors on one or more walls, takes a bit of skill and or experience to get it right. Where to end the room? Go from one inside corner to another? The entire room? Change the color to make the repaired wall an accent wall? But the taping part of the work is probably the most important since you don't want it to look like there was ever any damage. A good drywall taper is essential, as well as a painter who understands how to prime for the sheen of the finish coat. Generally, the higher the sheen the more priming you need to do.
Calling your insurance agent should be your first step, followed by getting an estimate from a qualified, licensed contractor. The amount of money paid from your claim will be adequate to cover the work. It would be a red flag if your estimate was higher than your insurance check. In reality, you should be able to get it done for a little less than the payment you received. Good luck!

Ceiling repair,re-paint video coming soon

2011-02-24T21:14:00Z

Planning to post a ceiling and wall repair video very soon for viewer's aid in tackling such jobs. Scraping down a badly peeling older ceiling with the wrong coating, latex wall paint it seems, was the topic. Old laundry room walls made of plaster, never properly prepared are shown in poor condition. Not the best video as far as detail goes, but hey it's my first time!! Hope you come back and see it .

pandhinnovationsllc.com- painting, wallpapering,free painting tips and advice

2010-10-29T15:42:00Z

Come for a visit to either the website or blog if searching for a quality "wall mechanic", or how to answer the many painting questions you may have. The company name is&H Innovations,LLC. We are based out of Hartford county CT. and work mainly in this area.

Paint Or Wallpaper Regardless Of Foreclosure Mess

2010-10-25T14:17:00Z

My reasoning for this commentary is to point out that homeowners should always bear in mind why they bought their dream home in the first place. Certainly there are exceptions to this, but many of us are fixated by the news media's obsession with how the foreclosure problem has caused real estate prices to continue to drop and may never return to an upward price appreciation trend. Looking at real estate as an asset, puts a better light on it. We've all heard of the CMO's (collateralized mortgage obligations) dreamed up by the Wall Street finance wizards, and regardless of this tedious, confusing topic, it causes many ordinary people to become fearful and protective of their investment in their homes. So looking at any asset, when it's value decreases and you still believe in it, shouldn't you add to it? Or in the case of housing maintain it? My belief is that many folks are afraid to spend any hard earned money, since the economic future is unclear. This is validated by an increase in personal savings for the first time in the past 2-3 years. For decades consumers would spend beyond their means on over-extended credit lines, all the while being urged on by credit card offers for more borrowing! But the increase in savings and financial discipline many people are currently displaying, is very encouraging! It would be cold and callous not to mention the many hardships this mortgage mess has caused so many innocent ,hard working people.
Keeping a home in good condition is a priority to most of the people I know. None of us can escape the realities of needing food/clothing/and shelter for our survival. When it comes to our homes, a plumbing or electrical problem would require immediate attention. In the case of painting or wallpapering, this is not true. Either some of us become DIY'ers or keep putting off hiring a professional. It is understandable that this is the case, but the poor economy effects the painting contractor too. Many reputable painters are willing to price their work a bit lower to ensure getting it. Remember that when a room or area of your home or office is painted, you get a fresh new look and feeling to your environment. When done properly the change can be very uplifting to your spirits and is well worth the money spent on the project. Best of all, when done right it won't need to be done again for many years to come!
So please don't let the negative media blitz get you down. Eventually the foreclosures will all be written off the books of these banks/institutions, stricter standards will be put in effect, and our economy will right itself. I say this both hopefully and with optimism. In the mean time, keep saving and spend wisely.

Information On Lead Paint Safe Practices For Contractors and Homeowners

2010-06-11T11:51:00Z

As of April 22 2010, new laws on lead-based paints went into effect requiring contractors (painters, carpenters, landlords/property managers, plumbers) to follow EPA required guidelines involving safe work practices. Called the RRP Rule, (renovation,repair,painting) it's purpose is to properly address lead -based paint hazards on disturbed painted surfaces. A renovation covers work activities done for compensation including most repair, remodeling, and maintenance of property. For example: window replacement, weatherization, interior and exterior painting of residential homes, apartments, and child occupied facilities (schools,day-care centers), built before 1978. The complete rule is available online at: www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovation.htm.
Renovation contractors are required to be trained and certified by either an EPA or state-approved training course, and a fee is paid by the firm. A "Certified Renovator" is given the responsibility of overseeing a job where lead-based paint is found on a "disturbed" surface. These trained and certified people do the initial test for lead with special test kits approved by the EPA, by slicing through the painted surface with a utility knife to get to the substrate (under the layers of paint ). If lead is detected, the work safe practices go into effect. They are designed to contain any lead dust from becoming airborne, and away from workers and residents as well as neighbors or passers by. Signs must be posted prior to work being started, Renovate Right lead hazard pamphlets are handed out to homeowners, apartment tenants, and any occupants. There are many rules that must be followed once lead is found. To avoid these mundane details I'll summarize by saying they are the responsibilty of the firm doing the work. Plastic is taped around the work area, 6' around in all directions, when working inside. Exterior requirements are even more stringent, with 20' around being the rule. Covering of landscaping, closing of all doors and windows (neighbors too!), posted signs, and even vertical containment may be necessary (ie- same as bridge painting). Workers must keep lead dust off themselves and within work area before leaving it.
There are also strict clean up of the work area rules and regs. Called cleaning verification, the certified renovator, must sign off at the end of each job. Even though the qualified and trained people are responsible, they may train other workers to do these duties, and return at the end of the job for the final inspection. During the work, the occupants are prohibited from entering the area. This is important to note since they cannot check on the job status, only rely on the contractor's word as to the project's progress. The firm must also pay for all these additional costs and may be passing them on to the property owner. This may be something to consider if it applies in your case.
A couple of points regarding the new laws: any minor repairs or maintenance (less than 6 square feet per interior room, or 20 square feet per exterior project) are exempt from the work practice requirements. But this does not include window replacement or demolition. Homeowners working on their own homes (DIY'ers) ARE NOT required to follow these work practices. Only if renovations are performed for compensation are they legally relevant. Of course, any homeowner who does the work themselves is encouraged by the EPA to follow these lead safe work practices. It is in their own best interest to do so. An exemption is given to a firm if all these conditions are met: 1)the renovation is in the owners home 2)no child under 6 lives there 3)no woman who is pregnant lives there 4)the housing is not a child-occupied facility 5)that the owner acknowledges that the firm is not required to follow the work practices of the RRP Rule.
Hope this helps people understand the new requirements and what they are. My feeling is they are meant to protect young children from serious health problems, and many uninformed residents in older apartments and homes. Let's hope this is the end result and not adding more expense to both the property owner and the small business/ contractors of the world. Especially in these difficult economic times.

ceiling repairs and matching existing textures

2010-01-14T04:21:44Z

Blending and matching sprayed on popcorn ceilings is an inexact science and you should not expect a perfect repair, unless you want to re-shoot the ceiling with an air compressor and paint hopper gun. If you do want the ceiling done over, ideally scraping down the old popcorn to an almost flat surface would do the best job. It is possible to spray over the whole area after first repairing and matching the old texture, the best you can. What would most likely be the least costly approach, might be a multiple step process, as explained below.
There are different problems that arise due to water damage, holes in drywall, remodeling or whatever. If a ceiling or wall has mildew it must be first eliminated, then any seams needing drywall taping must be dealt with. With the area compounded, sanded and primed (one coat is enough), you'll be set to begin. Understanding what painters use when initially spraying a new ceiling helps when it comes to matching the finish. They could use any of the following: Imperial ( fine, medium, course) dry texture additive or a similar product, latex ceiling paint with or without water added, joint compound, leftover primers,or water with very little paint. I'm certain other mixes have been and could be used, but you get the idea. My experience has taught me that having 3-4 different brands of dry texture additive of medium consistency, and adding joint compound, ceiling paint and a little water work best on a typical popcorn ceiling or wall. Now, of course some finishes are fine or sand, others swirl, others were applied with texture already in the can of paint. All these require various thicknesses when mixing, and different methods of application. You may need a regular nap roller cover or even the "loop" roller cover. My usual approach is to use a 3" paint brush to apply the mix. This way you can swirl if needed or add more to a light spot you may miss the first time through. Most of the time 2 coats are needed to get close as well as adding about a cup of joint compound on the second application to hide where the repair meets the old texture. After a 24 hour drying period, a painting of the entire ceiling, for color consistency, makes a big difference. I tried to summarize this a little since there are so many possibilities that could come up.
One last thing to mention concerns using the acoustic patch spray can. I carry a couple of cans with me but have yet to find a use for the product. If a person was not concerned about how it matches up, I suppose it would be fine in an inconspicuous area. It creates a "cottage cheese" and or popcorn texture look. Maybe it would somewhat match in an area done with the loop roller cover and premixed texture and paint? If it is used it certainly would reduce the amount of labor needed to get the end result. Hope this helps you out!

Sealing A Ceiling - from years of nicotine discoloration

2009-11-10T01:32:00Z

Have you ever tried to paint a ceiling and after 2 or 3 coats of kilz or a similiar stain killer, you still had overlap lines and uneven coverage? Well, get in line you're not the only one. Cigarette smoke and ceilings have a way of" bonding", and I don't mean as good friends do! Texture ceilings are mostly dry and porous and hold in the orange color from smoking until a heavy bodied alkyd/oil based paint penetrates and locks it in. If there is a new coating on the market that works as well as the oil paints mentioned (Benjamin Moore Calcimine Recoater or Kyanize Clingcote come to mind), please let me know. Excessively dry and dated ceilings, stained with nicotine, can absorb 100 square feet per gallon. At $40.00 a gallon that adds up quickly. Simply put, an average bedroom of 150 sqare feet would cost about $100.00 for materials(don't forget a respirator, gloves/long sleeves/hat etc...to keep the "product" off your skin) and another $100.00, for the services of a professional. If you do it yourself, be sure to vent the fumes, and use a fan if no cross ventalation is available, since it isn't pleasant breathing it in. The odor does fade overnight considerably, if properly aired out .

There really isn't any special technique to painting with this type of coating. It's hard work, and requires covering all furniture or items in the room as tiny spatters can be a problem. Try to keep the roller on the ceiling as much as possible. Determining how heavy a coat to apply is best done by rolling out a 3'x3' area with a fully loaded roller cover, and checking it after an overnight dry. You could need two coats even with these high quality paints. One last bit of advice is to try to keep the area being worked on as evenly rolled out as possible. If the surface is not too porous, this shouldn't be a problem. Ceilings are arguably the most difficult areas to paint, so don't expect an easy time if tackling one yourself. Or you can hire a pro, if you can find a willing one. Good luck!

kitchen repaint's steps and spec's

2009-10-19T19:29:00Z

When doing over a kitchen discolored from cooking grease and smoke, cleaning is step number one. This is obvious, but often is not done correctly, due to the unpleasantness of the task. Wiping down all surfaces, walls/woodwork/and ceilings, with a sanding deglosser probably works best. The volatile odor and vapors may be a problem for access or health reasons, so any "green" cleaner will have to do in such cases. Just be sure to clean as much buildup as possible from the surface to be repainted. Once this is completed, scuff sanding of enamel-painted trim or walls should be done next. Scuff sanding means a brief roughing up of old finish, not a thorough sanding. The painting term "give the surface a tooth" is what you are looking for. This allows new coating to hold on the old paint and not flake or chip off when bumped against. An alternate to scuff sanding is to use a sanding liquid/ deglosser, as mentioned earlier. One brand is called Wilbond, which gets rubbed on the surface and must be painted within 30 minutes of applying. This limits the size of the work area but if you can stand the smell, the job will go faster. Especially since after sanding you need to deal with the dust. So sanding and then wiping away the excess with a Wilbond type product would also work and you wouldn't have to be concerned with the 30 minute time limit.
Priming all and any bare wood with a good "enamel underbody " or universal primer is necessary. Doing an entire primer coat may be needed depending on the condition of old coating, or if a drastic color change is being done. There are so many good primers/ underbodies that you should use common sense and pay for quality, and not skimp. Most of the time one coat is all that is really needed for going over paint. But if going over stained/polyurethaned surfaces, you probably could use two. And a shellac based primer over polyu works well, such as Zinsser BIN primer. Using a small roller with a screen that fits into a gallon can is a good way to coat cabinet doorfronts, door panels, and uneven woodwork. But always keep a brush handy to even out any rolled on paint to assure a smooth finish, especially with enamel paints.
Finish coating with quality enamel paint (Benjamin Moore- Satin Impervo- oil base or waterborn), is worth paying for. This paint is more expensive than home improvement brands, but is, in my opinion, worth the money. Of course, doing the necessary preparation is the most important part of the job, but a quality paint will last years longer and make the prep down the road that much easier. Doing two coats will ensure both a uniform color and durable finish. Once again, using the little "whizz" rollers really does speed up the tedious job of painting your kitchen walls and or woodwork. Hope this helps you out!

repainting a mildewed bathroom

2009-09-29T01:43:00Z

Once a bathroom has mildew on the ceiling and or walls, the mildew must be eliminated, not just wiped away. Often homeowners, especially those who dislike painting, will try and cut corners on preparation and end up going over their work soon after completing it. When mildew is present, you can't miss it. The black growth grows on wallpaper, paint, caulk or anywhere it can. Either use specially prepared cleaning products supplied at paint, hardware or home improvement stores, or mix up your own. Take household bleach and mix it 50/50 with water and with a pail, sponge, and rubber gloves, you're ready to go. Wipe the solution on the mildewed surface and let it sit for ten to fifteen minutes. Rinse it off, let it dry and continue. If your bathroom does not have good ventilation, it is recommended you use paint made for kitchens and baths. Zinnsser sells Perma-White in satin finish or semi-gloss finish, which can also be tinted to different colors. Benjamin Moore makes Kitchen and Bath which does essentially the same thing. These paints are formulated to absorb moisture and resist mildew formation. They require a 2 coat application for the intended results. The shower must not be used for 24 hours, to allow for curing of the resins and polymers. Permawhite was used early on in inner city tenement buildings, where people lived in one room dwellings, and found to be effective and successful. For people who still like wallpaper in the bath and kitchen, it depends on the backing of the wallpaper as to whether you must replace or simply clean off the mildew, if present. Heavy fabric-backed vinyl may be able to be wiped down as above and the installation of a vented fan in the ceiling or wall could be the end of the problem. Although, sometimes the brown vinyl adhesive used to install the wallcovering can "feed" the mildew growth. Thinner papers with coatings or paper backings can also be mildew-prone. Often it is necessary to replace the paper and start over if there is too much dampness. Just bear in mind that mildew will return if not killed with the right cleaner, just because you wipe it away and it looks as if it's gone, doesn't mean it is! Good luck!

Preparation Before Painting: As Always, Makes For A Quality Job

2009-08-15T21:06:00Z

I've been painting exteriors for 35 years, and one constant that never changes is doing the due diligence first, then the easy part at the end. So often, homeowners will paint over peeling paint, not clean a surface prior to finish coating, or even primer coating, and wonder why they need to re-paint in 2-3 years. This has been an extremely rainy spring/summer making it nearly impossible to properly paint outside, due to the moisture. Living in Hartford CT county in 2009 has been difficult on quality conscious painting contractors. I did one full house which took 6 weeks to complete with many partial work days, because of rain or a wet surface on the house. I used Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Quick Dry Exterior Alkyd Primer, which gave me a good chance to continue working whenever possible. With a 2-3 hour dry time window, it's possible to apply finish paint the same day.

Without getting ahead of myself here, my main point is preparation prior to painting. In many cases, scraping peeling paint from unprimed surfaces, can best be done with flexible scraping broad knives, such as the one's made by Hyde Corporation. Two or 3" various size flexible knives work best on cedar shingle surfaces. Importantly, scraping from all directions will remove most of the loose paint. North, South, East and West is the best approach. Clearly this task is very boring,dull, tedious, agonizing or any adjective you can come up with. But even after all these years, nothing other than power sanding the entire surface works more effectively. Granted you can still see uneven areas where some paint remains, but as long as adhesion is not a problem, you're future peeling will be limited. Sometimes the remaining unprimed or poorly prepared surface will bubble again, in roughly five years out, but that should be the end of it! Always remember that the more scaling, peeling you get a handle on and take care of NOW, the sooner the problem will be resolved, because let's face it, noone likes doing the hard work. Some people don't like paying for it either. But home inspection will always detect a poor paint job and deduct the estimated cost from the home's value. So pay now or later/ through sweat eqity or professional painting.

There are many different exterior surfaces such as clapboard, cedar shakes, cedar siding, to name a few. They all must be dry (with cedar: time aired is crucial), mildew /mold or green growth free, clean, and cured. Sealing the surface with an alkyd primer is very important. Acrylic finish paints work well once oil-based or alkyd primed. Alkyd is another word for oil-based, or hydrocarbon based. The alkyd penetrates into the wood about 1/16" or so locking out water in the process. There are many excellent latex primers to use when spot priming already sealed surfaces. Never use shellac-based primers on outside weather exposed areas since they are for inside climate controlled surfaces. Zinsser makes the popular BIN primer, which is shellac-based.

If looking for a quality paint job on a house in poor condition, don't cheap out. Over the years i have heard the same story over and over again. Why was that quote so high but this quote so low? Any good paint contractor will need to test an area before getting an accurate understanding of the amount of prep involved. He must assume the conditions are the same all around the house unless specifically told otherwise. There are certain "students" who work at various franchise painting companies who, shall we say, are not known for their meticulous wall preparation. These are the hard facts of life in the world of outside painting.

Popcorn Ceilings and "the falldown" Headache

2009-05-31T19:26:00Z

Popcorn ceilings are sprayed on texture and a mix of various building materials, sometimes even paint! Builders usually subcontract the spraying of a mix of texture, joint compound, water and depending on the painter, ceiling paint, in varying amounts. The key is for the drywall to be primed first, preferably with oil based paint. But many times ceilings are sprayed with "the mix", on bare drywall. This is the root of the problem years down the road. 5,10,15 years from being built, the ceiling becomes very dry and turning darker and darker. I can recall early on working on a ceiling with an unprimed surface, and the roller picking up texture and leaving bare drywall exposed. Another common problem arises when using quick dry oil primers that aren't heavy bodied enough. Talk about working hard for nothing! Using the old kilz primer, would result in lap lines even after 3 coats! Some areas look darker than others and very uneven. Benjamin Moore makes a paint called Calcimine Recoater, for use on canvas ceilings. This product is difficult to stir, which is what you want in unprimed older, textured and thirsty surfaces. Unfortunately, it will soon be banned in many states due to environmental concerns. When these coatings become obselete I can only guess what will work in one application. The only approach I know of would be to remove the old texture, a messy job requiring masking tape and plastic, and taping/drywall tools. Then use of any latex primer would work adequately. If you have this problem you're not alone, it's the most common problem I get asked about by a wide margin.

if you can tweet ,you can paint!

2009-04-18T15:40:00Z

Seeing Oprah Winfrey tweeting for the first time on Friday 4/17/2009, reminded me how doing things for the first time can be both exciting and unpredictable. Many homeowners currently will or want to begin their own painting projects but dread the unknown headaches that inevitably arise. Come visit my blog and ask a question if you get stumped and I'll get back to you ASAP, depending on my own time crunches. Or just go through my Q&A section and look for the answers you need. There are many, many questions which can crop up due to variables in surface conditions, prior workmanship, etc... Often a homeowner will buy a house and tackle a problem 3,4 or 5 years later, forgetting what the seller had said about when the house had last been painted.When these situations arise people usually ask the local home improve. center or paint store and they provide many answers. But you get going and more scenarios come up where you need help. Check us out, leave a comment, and we'll try to help!! Have a good day.!!

home painting tips

2009-04-14T16:51:00Z

Q: what type of paint finish or sheen should I use when painting a room?
A:the following list is not all inclusive, there are others, like Pearl finishes, which are not mentioned here. but this gives a good overview. choose from:--FLAT-for ceilings and certain walls where high traffic isn't present. Flat wall paint will not wipe down,like shinier finishes do, they leave a mark when bumped up against. But you can touch up the marks with a brush and usually not notice any difference when done. Another good thing about flat paint is the need for fewer coats. SATIN/EGGSHELL-usually means the same thing in terms of gloss. Typically used for walls in family rooms,dining areas, hallways, bedrooms. Prior to the final coat, walls need to be spackled, sanded, spot primed TWICE on spackle or joint compound areas. If not spot primed twice,with a flat paint, and you paint with your eggshell finish (or semi-gloss,gloss),there will be "shiners". They are actually dull areas which will not get glossy even if you paint 4-5 coats! This could be the most valuable painting tip you'll ever get. SEMI-GLOSS- used in kitchens or bathrooms for the washability and wear factors. Kitchens frequently get food or cooking spatter on walls which wipe off well. Bathrooms often have what appear to be drips of water running down a wall. This is the result of steam or moisture from showers and poorly vented areas. Once again, just use a damp sponge or rag to wipe down the area. It will immediately come off, but almost always returns in the same way if not remedied (venting out with a fan or similiar method) GLOSS- for residential uses, not really that common. Sometimes in kitchens or on wood finished doors using high gloss polyurethane. Very durable and long lasting finish. Many restaraunts will use oil based, gloss, marine paints to coat restrooms where the ultimate in durability is needed. Remember that you can use any finish whereever you want, these are what I have seen in my experiences. Everyone has their own tastes, but doing the correct wall prep is essential to a good job.

Q: what finishes of paint (not colors), go on ceilings, walls, trim or floors?
A: on ceilings it is almost always flat latex white. But with dried out popcorn texture, being painted for the first time since the house was built, a good heavy bodied oil paint works best. Many states have banned or have stopped the sale of them ,due to environmental laws. I don't know of any surefire way to paint popcorn ceilings, other than what I just stated. Latex paint will leave lap lines and fall off the ceiling and onto your roller and cause massive paint job headaches. Walls use good quality flat paint maybe 30% of the time, while eggshell is the most common. Trim paint =either latex or oil base enamel. Enamel can be used on walls too. It basically is used on door casings, baseboard, crown molding, cabinetry and doors. OIL based enamel will chip only where bumped when fully cured. Latex works well but must be applied to well prepped trim. Floors are generally painted with specific types of paints stated on the label. Including:epoxies(very toxic), and latex and oil base too.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

2009-04-10T00:05:00Z

Q: what do I use to fill nailholes /small holes in interior walls?

A: there are quite a few options here. Joint compound, spackle, wood filler and even toothpaste will work.

Q:how do I prepare walls before painting?

A: it depends on the pre-existing conditions, but generally you need to spackle to flush, sand, spot prime spackled areas twice (when using eggshell or semi-gloss finish),and prime one coat with a quality primer such as Zinsser Bullseye 123 or Zinsser Prime & Seal for oil base needs.

Q: how do I repair a hole in the wall?

A: let's assume two different scenarios. First, if the hole is 7" or less in diameter. I suggest using Norton fiberglass drywall repair tape, overlapping the hole about 2" all the way around. Apply tape randomly making sure the entire area has at least 2 pieces thick everywhere. When drywall taping, 3 coats of USG joint compound should suffice. The first coat will seem flimsy, but don't worry. Second, if the hole is larger than 7" it's best to cut the drywall, with a Hyde drywall saw up to the studs. Once at 2x4's you need to cut about 1/2 " into the stud, with a utility knife. This will allow you to cut, nail/screw, and tape a new piece of sheetrock to fit. Then prime 2x, and match finish paint, if possible, to repair. You may have to repaint entire wall if repair stands out.

Q: how do I strip old wallpaper?

A: there are many different backings on wallcoverings, some come down very easily while others do not. There also can be multiple layers, and you don't know what secrets are underneath until the work gets started. Fabric backed vinyls, scrim backed papers, nonwoven dry strippables, all come down quite easily. Using a Hyde broad knife (3"-6")to get a corner started makes things easy. The sharper the broad knife, after years of use, definitely makes the job go more quickly and with less strain. Sadly, many wallpapers today say vinyl on the rolls but are really vinyl coated papers, which often need to be sanded, or scored with Zinsser Paper Tiger, prior to removal. Doing a 1' square test area helps to determine the degree of sanding,scoring or soaking with Zinsser DIF wallpaper remover. I usually do a test area with a piece of#80 sandpaper,3x soak with very hot water and get a good feel for the situation. Letting the hot water soak between applications is a crucial bit of info. No way around it, it's grunt work.!

Q: how do I repair torn drywall?

A: first, sand brown paper so loose pieces are gone. Next seal with either oil base primer (Zinsser Kover Stain) or Zinsser Gardz,made specifically for damaged drywall. Gardz is non-toxic versus the the petrol vapors . Both ways resolve paper bubbling when repairing drywall. Skim coat, sand, prime and paint or wallpaper to choice.

Q: what do I do with bulging or bellied walls?

A: with walls that are uneven in appearance, skim coating with USG Dust Control Joint Compound works well. For large areas using professional drywall tools make the job much easier. Wal-Board Tools makes a complete line of top shelf equipment. It is a good idea to sponge sand compound and use fine sandpaper for the final touch. A tile and grout sponge works quite well. Expect 3 coats before you get the walls to your liking. Always wear a 3M Dust Mask when sanding, the silica dust is dangerous to breathe in. Always prime before finishing!

Q: how do I repair mildewed areas on walls or ceilings?

A: on any mildewed area you must first kill the growth. Mildew is a living organism which is neutralized with a 50/50 bleach-water solution. There are pre- mixed products available, which work fine, but the bleach is what really does the job. Wipe down area with a sponge and work gloves, allowing it to soak about 15 minutes. Then with clean water wipe off the area again, let it dry, seal with a quality oil-based primer,such as Zinsser Kover Stain or Prime& Seal. Both are quick dry primers allowing for top coating in 2 hours max.

Q: how do I repair loose drywall tape at corners or seams?

A: on either ceilings or walls the technique is the same. Pull out paper tape where loose; cutting back with single edge blade or utility knife, horizontally, to point where tape is secure/unnoticeable. I like to use Norton fiberglass drywall repair tape, but standard paper tape will work also. With drywall tools, apply USG joint compound to corner, set tape into "mud", then squeeze out air from paper tape, but not all the mud. The lack of compound/mud behind tape is what caused the problem. With fiber tape, apply slightly more compound and squeeze out excess. Do 2 more coats of mud,sponge sand, sand, prime and finish paint to choice. If problem is less severe with paper tape, you can pull back paper and slip some joint compound underneath. Then run taping knife over to set and remove air, and come back after dry for 2nd and 3rd coats as needed.

Q: what do I use to clean walls before painting or wallpapering?

A: if old wallpaper paste is on the walls, using a 5 gallon pail with a tile-grout sponge and hot water, is a good start. Using DIF wallpaper remover helps in some situations, but trying hot water with rubber work gloves usually gets it done. Along with lots of elbow grease and energy. There are good primers with polymers and bonding additives which work well, like XIM brand UMA bonder. But I believe in removing all residue, if possible first. It creates a cleaner, smoother surface. An old fashioned method of using vinegar and water works as well, although it was originally used to remove paste and "size" (glue-based from horses). A can't fail method of priming walls after cleaning uses Zinsser BullsEye123. Especially on unusual surfaces with gloss or hard finishes, where adhesion is a problem.

Q: what kind of primer should be used on new Sheetrock walls?

A: there are many good choices, which depend on whether for residential,commercial or industrial uses. Generally, any recommended brand will work fine, oil or latex, while avoiding the inexpensive brand name labels. If given a choice, take the label claiming an undercoater for multi-use. When hanging solid wall vinyl ideally walls should be sealed with oil primers, but there are now many quality water-based products. There is vinyl paste developed to go over bare drywall also. Many states are now banning the use of oil-based/alkyd paints entirely, so check with your local retailer for recommendations.

Q: what is the best approach to removing 2-3 layers of wallpaper?

A: start in a test area,hand sanding a 1 foot square section, then soaking with hot water, up to 3 times. This test gives a great indication of ease of removal. Continue soaking the layer or layers beneath, to see if the others are either paper, vinyl coated paper, or solid easily removable wall-coverings. Papers generally don't need to be sanded and come off with hot water and DIF Wallpaper remover (or similar).Vinyl coated papers need a scuffing with sandpaper to allow the penetration of the stripping chemicals. Be sure too allow saturation of paper with hot water and time to loosen. Solid back goods are identified by grasping an end or piece of the sheet and coming off in one easy step. But that will mean a vinyl adhesive will be on the wall underneath, which must be washed off if painted. If installing new vinyl or most any paper, other than very delicate wall coverings, the old paste can remain and in effect be reactivated when new goods go up. Be careful not too over paste sheets. Brown paste residue=clay paste,a potentially staining adhesive to new delicate materials like grass cloth,silk, fabrics. Be sure to identify wallpapers correctly!