Q: how do I repair torn drywall?

A: first, sand brown paper so loose pieces are gone. Next seal with either oil base primer (Zinsser Kover Stain) or Zinsser Gardz,made specifically for damaged drywall. Gardz is non-toxic versus the the petrol vapors . Both ways resolve paper bubbling when repairing drywall. Skim coat, sand, prime and paint or wallpaper to choice.

Q: what do I do with bulging or bellied walls?

A: with walls that are uneven in appearance, skim coating with USG Dust Control Joint Compound works well. For large areas using professional drywall tools make the job much easier. Wal-Board Tools makes a complete line of top shelf equipment. It is a good idea to sponge sand compound and use fine sandpaper for the final touch. A tile and grout sponge works quite well. Expect 3 coats before you get the walls to your liking. Always wear a 3M Dust Mask when sanding, the silica dust is dangerous to breathe in. Always prime before finishing!

Q: how do I repair mildewed areas on walls or ceilings?

A: on any mildewed area you must first kill the growth. Mildew is a living organism which is neutralized with a 50/50 bleach-water solution. There are pre- mixed products available, which work fine, but the bleach is what really does the job. Wipe down area with a sponge and work gloves, allowing it to soak about 15 minutes. Then with clean water wipe off the area again, let it dry, seal with a quality oil-based primer,such as Zinsser Kover Stain or Prime& Seal. Both are quick dry primers allowing for top coating in 2 hours max.

Q: how do I repair loose drywall tape at corners or seams?

A: on either ceilings or walls the technique is the same. Pull out paper tape where loose; cutting back with single edge blade or utility knife, horizontally, to point where tape is secure/unnoticeable. I like to use Norton fiberglass drywall repair tape, but standard paper tape will work also. With drywall tools, apply USG joint compound to corner, set tape into "mud", then squeeze out air from paper tape, but not all the mud. The lack of compound/mud behind tape is what caused the problem. With fiber tape, apply slightly more compound and squeeze out excess. Do 2 more coats of mud,sponge sand, sand, prime and finish paint to choice. If problem is less severe with paper tape, you can pull back paper and slip some joint compound underneath. Then run taping knife over to set and remove air, and come back after dry for 2nd and 3rd coats as needed.

Q: what do I use to clean walls before painting or wallpapering?

A: if old wallpaper paste is on the walls, using a 5 gallon pail with a tile-grout sponge and hot water, is a good start. Using DIF wallpaper remover helps in some situations, but trying hot water with rubber work gloves usually gets it done. Along with lots of elbow grease and energy. There are good primers with polymers and bonding additives which work well, like XIM brand UMA bonder. But I believe in removing all residue, if possible first. It creates a cleaner, smoother surface. An old fashioned method of using vinegar and water works as well, although it was originally used to remove paste and "size" (glue-based from horses). A can't fail method of priming walls after cleaning uses Zinsser BullsEye123. Especially on unusual surfaces with gloss or hard finishes, where adhesion is a problem.

Q: what kind of primer should be used on new Sheetrock walls?

A: there are many good choices, which depend on whether for residential,commercial or industrial uses. Generally, any recommended brand will work fine, oil or latex, while avoiding the inexpensive brand name labels. If given a choice, take the label claiming an undercoater for multi-use. When hanging solid wall vinyl ideally walls should be sealed with oil primers, but there are now many quality water-based products. There is vinyl paste developed to go over bare drywall also. Many states are now banning the use of oil-based/alkyd paints entirely, so check with your local retailer for recommendations.

Q: what is the best approach to removing 2-3 layers of wallpaper?

A: start in a test area,hand sanding a 1 foot square section, then soaking with hot water, up to 3 times. This test gives a great indication of ease of removal. Continue soaking the layer or layers beneath, to see if the others are either paper, vinyl coated paper, or solid easily removable wall-coverings. Papers generally don't need to be sanded and come off with hot water and DIF Wallpaper remover (or similar).Vinyl coated papers need a scuffing with sandpaper to allow the penetration of the stripping chemicals. Be sure too allow saturation of paper with hot water and time to loosen. Solid back goods are identified by grasping an end or piece of the sheet and coming off in one easy step. But that will mean a vinyl adhesive will be on the wall underneath, which must be washed off if painted. If installing new vinyl or most any paper, other than very delicate wall coverings, the old paste can remain and in effect be reactivated when new goods go up. Be careful not too over paste sheets. Brown paste residue=clay paste,a potentially staining adhesive to new delicate materials like grass cloth,silk, fabrics. Be sure to identify wallpapers correctly!